1st Variant . The simplest and the cheapest. Fundoshi, shitagi. No footwear or varaji, zori, ashinaka.
Shin puttees (“kyahan”) can be added.
2nd Variant . Fundoshi, juban, teboso, yonohakama, kyahan. Optionally: eboshi or hachimaki. No footwear or varaji, zori, ashinaka.
3rd Variant . Fundoshi, juban, teboso, kukuribakama, kyahan. Optionally: eboshi or hachimaki. No footwear or varaji, zori, ashinaka.
4th Variant . Fundoshi, shitagi, monpe/matahiki. Varaji, zori, ashinaka.
Garb components
Fundoshi
There are at least 3 variants of making and wearing fundoshi.
Variant 1. Described in Tanki Yoriaki, so called etchu
On the original picture breast part of the fundoshi is shown made with 2 layers. But practically it does not have any sense. We recommend to make fundoshi with 1 layer. Etchu width is 20-30, length is individual.
Pattern http://www.rhinohide.cx/tousando/img/fundoshi.jpg
Variant 2. The design is similar to the previous, put neck cord is not used. Instead fundoshi slouches freely as an apron.
Variant 3. String-like fundoshi.
Tying method: http://www.geocities.com/sg_tiger.geo/fundoshi.html
Recommended fabric: white linen, white cotton, white silk.
Shitagi
There are a lot of shitagi designs, the main difference is sleeves width. Lined and unlined variants are possible. Tanki Yoriaki shows the method of dressing popular in the period. Sleeves can be tied by tasuki cord.
Kosode pattern (http://minnakiri.sengoku.ru/patterns/kosode.htm) can be used, but sleeves are to be little narrower.
Recommended fabric: linen, hemp.
Teboso
Teboso is a kind of kosode, not so long (up to middle of the thigh) and with tube-like sleeves. Can be lined or not.
This pattern (http://www.rhinohide.cx/tousando/img/shitagi.jpg ) can be used but length mast be mentioned. Recommended width of the sleeves – 20-25 cm
Recommended fabric: linen, hemp.
Juban
Juban is underwear kimono to be wearing under kosode, teboso, etc. Usually unlined.
Pattern is same to teboso.
Recommended fabric: white linen, cotton, hemp.
Kukuribakama
This is a type of hakama that has ties at the hem of each leg to allow it to be secured to the leg. As you can see at Costume Museum models folds can be either strongly visible or just marked. Can be lined or not.
Pattern of hakama (http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/katchu/gra ... akama1.PDF) can be used as the base with adding ties.
Some kind of tatsukebakama/igabakama (hakama with narrow shin part) can be used. In this case there is no need for kyahan.
Recommended fabric: linen, hemp.
Yonohakama
Short hakama with just marked folds. Usually unlined.
You can base on the patterns of hakama (http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/katchu/gra ... akama1.PDF) or kobakama (http://www.rhinohide.cx/tousando/img/kobakama.jpg), but mentioned length and folds type.
Recommended fabric: linen, hemp.
Monpe/matahiki
Tight-fitting, narrow trousers. Can be tied in two places of shin.
Recommended fabric: linen, hemp.
Depending on ties place monpe/matahiki can be tied either as usual hakama or on the one side.
Kyahan
Kyahan can be used either separately or over the hakama. Can be lined or not.
Pattern http://www.rhinohide.cx/tousando/img/kiahan.jpg
Recommended fabric: linen, hemp.
Varaji
Straw-made sandals. The basic type of ashigaru and bushi footwear.
Note: tabi sox is not typical for ashigary
Zori
Another type of straw-made sandals. Unlike varaji do not have ties
Ashinaka
Similar to zori but only have soles on the balls of the feet, not the instep or heel
Eboshi
There are a lot of eboshi types. Check this pattern of hikitate eboshi
Haori
In Japanese costume history the word “haori” is stands for different types of kimono comparable for making design. Speaking about ashigaru we mean the kind of cape using for identification purposes or for warming during cold period. There are types without sleeves or with small ones.
Hachimaki
Band of fabric 5-10 cm wide. There are 2 variants of hachimaki tying.
1. Hachimaki is tied in front of the head by 8-like knot.
2. Simply tied on back of the head
Recommended fabric: linen, cotton.
The following sources were used: Tanki Youriaki , Zohyo Monogatari, models of Japan Costume Museum, period scrolls, Internet articles.
Russian version of the article: http://minnakiri.sengoku.ru/clan/clandoc/Ashgarb.htm
